BASEMENT CARPET INSTALLATION is something that most people can do in a day or two, whether for aesthetic reasons or to help warm up a cold room. Why should you pay someone else to do it? By learning how to prepare a room for carpeting and using the appropriate materials, you can ensure that the job goes quickly and smoothly.
- 1 1. Planning the basement carpet installation
- 2 2. Buying Carpet
- 2.1 2.1. Measure the area that will be carpeted.
- 2.2 2.2. Bring any drapery or paint samples for comparison to the carpet dealer.
- 2.3 2.3. Choose a carpet that can withstand the concrete.
- 2.4 2.4. Select a carpet style.
- 3 3. Room Preparation
- 3.1 3.1. Completely empty the room.
- 3.2 3.2. Any drainage issues in the room you intend to carpet must be addressed prior to carpeting.
- 3.3 3.3. Allow the carpet to air out before installing it.
- 3.4 3.4. For ease of installation, remove any doors.
- 3.5 3.5. Remove any baseboards.
- 3.6 3.6. Fill in any surface cracks or imperfections.
- 3.7 3.7. Flatten any low spots in the slab with a leveling product.
- 3.8 3.8. Thoroughly clean the concrete with the appropriate cleaner for the stains you find.
- 3.9 3.9. Maintain the room’s temperature.
- 4 4. Carpet Installation
- 5 5. Step by step basement carpet installation video
1. Planning the basement carpet installation
Get ready to answer the dealer’s questions. Typically, you will be asked a few basic questions about the room and your intended use for it. These questions are intended to assist you in selecting the best carpet for your needs, but they are also good to ask yourself. It is beneficial to give some thought ahead of time so that you do not have to make a hasty decision.
- Does the basement area you plan to carpet have high humidity?
- Do you have a lot of windows in the room?
- Will there be a lot of or little traffic in the room?
- Do you have children or pets?
- Is there direct outside access?
- How big is the room?
Dealers will also try to sell you Stainmaster, Teflon, and Anti-Static technology at varying levels of cost to you. Remember, the choice is entirely yours. Get something that will serve your purpose, but don’t be pressured into purchasing expensive options that you don’t want.
2. Buying Carpet
2.1. Measure the area that will be carpeted.
Take these measurements to your carpet dealer to ensure you get enough carpet for the job. Tell them you’re carpeting over concrete because it requires a different carpet material as well as slightly different tools than carpeting over wood.
2.2. Bring any drapery or paint samples for comparison to the carpet dealer.
If you’ve already painted the walls or planned on doing any other decorating in the room, bring in some colour samples so you can make an informed decision at the store.
2.3. Choose a carpet that can withstand the concrete.
Make certain that the entire carpet is made entirely of synthetic materials. Some carpet has jute backing, which is too absorbent for use on concrete. If you’re not going to install your carpet on a subfloor, you’ll need to choose a fabric that can withstand the tendency of concrete to collect moisture. Consider a carpet with an olefin face fiber. This carpet is made of a chemical-resistant fiber that can withstand aggressive cleaning solutions such as bleach. It is not the softest or most attractive carpet, but it will last.
2.4. Select a carpet style.
You have the option of patterned or solid carpet, as well as light or dark color. You can also select tight or loose fiber loops, as well as a solid or mesh subsurface.
The carpet rule of thumb is that light carpet creates the illusion of more space in a smaller room, while darker carpet adds coziness to a larger space.
3. Room Preparation
3.1. Completely empty the room.
Remove all furniture and anything else that is resting on the carpet.
3.2. Any drainage issues in the room you intend to carpet must be addressed prior to carpeting.
Ignoring the problem now could lead to a costly and expensive project later on, especially if you end up with harmful mold and have to tear out the carpet and redo all your hard work.
• Rent or purchase a moisture reader to test the humidity on your own.
This should be done a week or more before the carpet installation day to allow for enough time for the waterproofing to be completed.
3.3. Allow the carpet to air out before installing it.
Carpet is a chemical stew laced with solvents. Allowing it to air out will reduce fumes when you install it.
3.4. For ease of installation, remove any doors.
To ensure smooth closing after carpet installation, you may need to sand or use a saw to undercut the bottom of the doors and trim door jambs.
3.5. Remove any baseboards.
To install your carpet, you may need to remove the baseboards. Alternatively, if the carpet fits under the baseboards, you can leave them in place.
3.6. Fill in any surface cracks or imperfections.
Fill in any holes or cracks before the surface dries, making sure the top of the repair is level with the rest of the concrete surface. Small cracks and fractures can be repaired with a waterproof cement-based filler (e.g., Armstrong 501).
3.7. Flatten any low spots in the slab with a leveling product.
Allow the product to dry before sanding and smoothing the surface.
3.8. Thoroughly clean the concrete with the appropriate cleaner for the stains you find.
After washing, use a mold and bacteria killing solution of 1 part household bleach to 15 parts water to kill the mold and bacteria. Thoroughly rinse with clean water.
3.9. Maintain the room’s temperature.
Temperatures should be kept between 65°F and 95°F (18°C and 35°C) and humidity levels should be kept between 10 and 65 percent for 48 hours before and after installation. Your carpet installation should go smoothly if you follow these guidelines.
4. Carpet Installation
4.1.Place the tack strip down.
Attach a piece of tack strip the length of one wall to the floor with masonry nails. The tack points should be oriented toward the wall. For a secure fit, use liquid nail glue in addition to the nails. Between the gripper strip and the wall, leave a gap the thickness of the carpet’s pile. This is where you will tuck the carpet’s edges during installation.
• Other names for tack strip include gripper rod (UK), carpet gripper, Smooth edge (Can), tack strip, and gripper edge.
• Alternatively, glue-down carpet can be used instead of tack strips.
4.2. Arrange the padding strips.
Place padding strips the length of the room side by side across the room. Maintain abutting rows and cover seams with duct tape. With a utility knife, cut away any excess. Apply glue to the padding’s corners as well as various spots throughout the padding’s body.
4.3. Cut carpet to size, leaving about 6 inches (15.2 cm) extra all around.
To hide seams, patterns must be the same length. Place seam tape with the adhesive side up where the pieces meet. To activate the adhesive and join the pieces together, use a steam iron.
4.4. Lay out the carpet and use a rented knee kicker to force it into the far corner.
Stretch the carpet across the room to the opposite wall with the power stretcher. Attach the carpet to the tack strip. Repeat until the carpet is smooth and flat. In general, you’ll start at the center of each wall and work your way out to the corners. As a beginner, you should avoid using a power stretcher because they can overstretch or even rip carpet. They are hydraulic, heavy, and extremely costly.
4.5. Trim the edges.
Cut off any excess carpet and push it behind the tack strip, if necessary with a putty knife with a wide blade. Replace doors and cover the carpeting edge at doorways with metal door jambs. Finish with your preferred baseboards.